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April 23, 2009 EDITION
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Digging into dirt science

A few tips for getting soil ready for spring

Though soil preparation is a year-round task, it’s not too late to improve on Mother Nature’s humble offering of dirt.

Soil amendments are best made gradually, beginning with a soil test to determine the acidity and level of organic matter in the soil.

However, if you are breaking in a new patch of ground or filling up some front-porch containers, a few simple steps can increase the yield, whether growing vegetables or flowers.

If breaking new ground, remove the top layer of grass and vegetation with a shovel.

This layer can be set aside, composted, or placed at the bottom of a trench and covered over with six to eight inches of dirt, giving earthworms some decaying vegetation to convert to nitrogen-rich soil.

If you want to plan ahead, you can cover an area of grass or weeds with layers of newspaper, with several inches of mulch piled on top.

As the roots die, worms convert the matter to soil, and six months to a year later, the area is a raised bed that can planted with little effort.

Grass clippings and dead leaves make excellent mulch or composting material, and a compost pile of organic matter is also a great place to put kitchen scraps.

The material can be allowed to age and break down to a rich, crumbly humus or can be mixed straight into the soil.

For more intensive gardening, turf can be removed with a spade, then compost, mulch, dried manure and appropriate levels of lime can be applied, and then tilled or turned with a shovel or mattock.

For root growth, bone meal can provide calcium, and wood ash is a rich source of phosphorous, potassium and magnesium.

Hardwood ash, typical from woodstoves, have more calcium and potash than pine or other soft woods, though not as much calcium as lime.

If using chemical fertilizers, check the formula to best match your soil’s needs.

The numbers on the bag indicate the levels of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium.

For example, a 10-10-10 formula means there is a 10-percent supply of each of the components.

Nitrogen can be enhanced with dried blood, though healthy soil already contains nitrogen-fixing bacteria.

Some growers protect their plants from drought by mulching around them or planting cover crops such as clover or vetch between the rows.

These natural barriers also enhance the soil through the decomposing matter, though the plants may compete with vegetables or flowers for water and sunlight if not curtailed in some way.

Soils with heavy clay benefit from the addition of some sand or organic matter, with recommendations of up to a third of the amount of organic matter added to two-thirds the amount of soil. As the matter decomposes, the soil becomes darker and looser.

If using a tiller on new ground, add resistance so that the tiller breaks ground slowly.

Try to till the ground in at least two passes, and avoid tilling side-by-side rows as the tiller tends to drag toward the softer soil and makes steady traction difficult to maintain.

Even container gardens can use a little sprucing up.

While bagged potting soil is generally rich in nutrients, specific plants may require special treatment.

For example, some growers add additional lime, bone meal, or wood ash to tomato plants to help prevent blight. Overall, healthier plants are more immune to blights and pests.

As with any “medicine,” too much of a good thing is not such a good thing.

Excess nitrogen can stunt or kill plants, and even organic fertilizers can burn plants.

Avoid applying any fertilizer directly to roots, and remember that the spreading of nutrients through the soil takes time.

That’s where nature’s wonder tiller, the earthworm, comes in handy. If you do nothing else to enhance your soil, the introduction of a few nightcrawlers is sure to leave your dirt looser, darker, and richer.

You’ll also notice they love to congregate around roots or decaying organic matter.

Even the lowly slug, a bane of many gardeners, helps fulfill this task, so consider this when tempted to salt them or use a pesticide.

If working the soil seems more like a fight than a symbiosis, remember that you aren’t inventing a new science. Nature has been growing food, flowers and trees successfully for millions of years.

That’s a track record that should give even those with gray thumbs hope for a successful harvest.




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